Evaluate: 2nd A.O.C. in Brentwood boosts L.A. eating scene

Page Ventresca

My previous unforgettable cafe encounter in 2020 was in November at 1 of the city’s contemporary classics: A.O.C. on West 3rd Street. I could not have recognised the food would be a complete of kinds to the yr. It was about two months ahead of the Los Angeles County Section […]

My previous unforgettable cafe encounter in 2020 was in November at 1 of the city’s contemporary classics: A.O.C. on West 3rd Street.

I could not have recognised the food would be a complete of kinds to the yr. It was about two months ahead of the Los Angeles County Section of Overall health suspended outside dining as COVID-19 cases spiked (and then retained climbing through the vacations). The interior courtyard of the restaurant’s rococo Spanish-Californian making was total that night time a staff members member as an alternative led me and my partner to a makeshift patio in an adjacent parking large amount.

We tugged our table and inched our chairs closer to the closest portable heater. The planet felt dim in several techniques.

Amid so much bleakness, the characteristics that make A.O.C. a essential section of the city’s eating society held quick. Our server’s we’re-in-this-jointly heat continue to rings in my chest. My fellow hadn’t been to the cafe given that ahead of its 2013 relocation, a number of blocks from the cramped bar wherever Caroline Styne (the wine director and entrance-of-property ace) and Suzanne Goin (the chef) first opened A.O.C. in 2002. He’d in no way experienced the bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with Parmesan, a single of Goin’s signature bites. We started off there, with the small, porky cylinders hurling oversize flavors and textures as we bore into them.

Remaining served in Brentwood: from left, za’atar lamb chops, tomato salad and Swiss chard with saffron butter.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Moments)

The menu laid bare the time: pear and Manchego salad scattered with hazelnuts sliced duck breast paired with an sophisticated apple-potato-bacon gratin and a aspect of sweet potatoes tangled with spinach and sauced with nutty-smoky romesco. It was the form of all-around-wonderful food that leaves you smiling to oneself — that puts you in a head to attain more than and hold your beloved’s hand on the automobile experience dwelling.

We recalled that evening when we booked a birthday supper at A.O.C. in late April. Fava beans and green garlic had changed root veggies. Strawberries and last-of-period blood orange segments hid in a salad’s added-peppery arugula leaves.

Now that it’s July, apricot slivers and halved cherries tumble in the greens. Another salad, a mix of tomatoes that varyingly pop and squish, summons Greece with its other ingredients: purslane, inky olives, sharp feta. Clean thyme perfumes prawns baked in the wood oven and served about sunny cornbread pudding.

These concentrated tastes of summer time are unmistakably A.O.C. The placing is new, nevertheless, so feeding on them feels as if the dishes have someway passed via a mirror’s reflection. Very last month Styne and Goin opened a 2nd A.O.C. in Brentwood, replacing the sprawling, bold Tavern that the two of them experienced run considering that 2009.

They wholly reconsidered the area, doing absent with the glassed-in atrium and made an general tone that’s clubbier and much more timeless. Action to the correct of the entrance into a dim area that retains the lengthy bar from its Tavern times. Shades of charcoal, eggplant and walnut established the temper. A drink termed the Yorkshire Bitter (bourbon, lemon and strawberry dashed with rhubarb bitters) feels correct listed here, at the very least right before you disappear into the deep wine record. The decibels can be thunderous when the room fills to capacity.

Tables are set for dinner in a room with boldly patterned wallpaper.

The eating area to the still left of the entrance at A.O.C. in Brentwood.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Situations)

The other path potential customers into a brighter location in which the decor seems rightly intended all-around its mesmerizing eco-friendly and gold wallpaper I can consider staring into its ornate, inkblot styles in the breakfast place of a best-flight Parisian hotel. Beyond this extend is an personal alcove that’s however energetic in sound but almost certainly the restaurant’s quietest nook.

If the two A.O.C.s share small in common physically, they are identical twins philosophically. The menu redoubles the communal, tiny-plates ethos that Goin and Styne led the demand to codify in Los Angeles. The bounty is Californian the oomph of flavors attracts on cuisines unique to the lots of cultures that exist around the continents-spanning Mediterranean Sea. Harissa slashes by way of the richness of beef cheeks. The shiny, earthy and sour intensities of za’atar, sumac and labneh with preserved lemon surround lamb chops like a flashing aura.

Goin’s specific genius is in hanging a taut balance: She follows the mantra of “let the elements discuss for themselves” though also pushing flavors to heady extremes.

A clay, high-rimmed dish is piled with chicken, panzanella, fennel and green olives.

Roast rooster “Ode to Zuni” with panzanella, fennel and environmentally friendly olives.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Occasions)

Often this deftness arrives through unexpectedly, as in what seems to be like a straightforward facet of Swiss chard. The greens sponge up the saffron butter in which they’re sautéed by the time the chard reaches the desk the spice’s coloration and musk have permeated to a mobile level. It’s abundant and fresh new and a minimal bitter and all-close to superb.

Goin’s sly use of rigidity may perhaps greatest be savored in her prolonged-jogging Ode to Zuni, a crisp-skinned roast rooster with calming bread salad that riffs off of Judy Rodgers’ magnum opus recipe. Goin slips in fennel and environmentally friendly olives to disrupt the pure consolation-food vibes.

I have never had an knowledge at A.O.C. — possibly of them — that was considerably less than strong. It can be downright thrilling right now in Brentwood with the important gamers on hand — the smooth support that lights up the place, the dishes powerful and dynamic in their good-tuning.

A tip: Get a little something from the menu’s leading portion, labeled “to start off.” The bacon-wrapped dates are outlined there, as is the gratifying, always-altering “farmer’s plate” of roasted veggies and spreads with grilled toast. It may perhaps seem random, but some thing about kicking off with just one of these sets the timing on the proper monitor. They zip out of the kitchen area, helping to calm hunger, and then the rest of the programs are likely to move in a satisfying rhythm.

I brought a few first-timers with me to meals in Brentwood. Their reactions to some of the charges — $25 for a little fillet of sea bass with mustard and pancetta, the good wines by the 6-ounce glass priced typically in the teenagers to mid-20s — remind me that A.O.C. is important, but it isn’t low-cost.

At equally spots, Goin and Styne have a decisive edge in the dessert division: pastry chef Shannon Swindle, who has been with their group due to the fact 2019. I’ve been admiring Swindle’s sweets given that we both equally labored in Dallas a dozen several years ago his precise, seasonal sensibility melds organically with Goin’s. In the exact way that I seek out focaccia lined with cherries and Taleggio or summertime squash with chermoula among the the sides on the savory menu, I’ll skip more than Swindle’s chocolate torta and butterscotch pot de crème (wonderful as they are) for his of-the-minute fruit creations.

A plate holds a circle of cheesecake topped with cherries, amid a swirl of juice.

Pastry chef Shannon Swindle’s sour cream cheesecake with cherries, black pepper crumble and mint.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Moments)

Back again in November, his apple upside-down cake with sherry-soaked raisins and garam masala ice product capped our night with spice and cheer. Currently he’s been baking buttery apricot cake sprinkled with caramelized pistachios frying ricotta fritters served with clouds of lemon cream and blueberry-verbena jam bleeding purple juice and sending out peach and berry crumble still effervescent in its small cast-iron skillet, with vanilla ice product atop melting like estuaries more than craggy streusel.

It’s scarce to the issue of uncanny that an establishment can copy its good results — not just the cooking type and the systems but its spirit too. Goin, Styne and their crew have pulled it off.

A.O.C. Brentwood

11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 806-6464, aocwinebar.com

Price ranges: Starters $6-$26, small plates $13-$26, platters $36-$72, desserts $13-15

Aspects: 5-10 p.m. Sundays and Tuesdays-Thursdays 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

Advisable dishes: bacon-wrapped dates, seasonal salads, prawns with cornbread pudding, za’atar lamb chops, “Ode to Zuni” roast chicken, fruit crumble

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